Easkey Britton first stepped on a surf board at the age of four
Raised in Donegal to ocean-loving parents, surfing has always been in Easkey Britton's blood.
First stepping on a board at just four years old, Britton was the first woman to ride the 15-foot 'big wave' at the Cliffs of Moher in 2007 before going on to win five Irish national titles in the sport.
A scientist, academic and social activist, with a PhD in Environment and Society - Britton is far more than your average surfer despite her success on the waves.
"I have salt water in my blood and I am in a surfing way of life. I have had an infatuation and love for the sea since before I can remember," she told Sportsound Extra Time.
"It is my number one passion and it is an incredible way to explore the world.
"From a very early age you are living a life around natural cycles, the weather, the tide. You are very in tune to that because they are part of your observations as a surfer.
"I guess I was educated in meteorology without realising it."
Britton takes on the waves at Mullaghmore
Britton broke into the Irish surfing team at the age of 12, and by travelling to competitions all over the world, she realised the sport "could take me beyond Donegal".
Through her travels, Britton said she discovered the sport creates a "powerful and cultural connection" not only between people, but also the environment.
"When you are a surfer you are on the front line of the changes that are happening in the marine environment," she added.
"Waves are there one minute and gone the next. The Cliffs of Moher and Mullaghmore can have 30-foot waves in winter and then be flat the next day.
"There is something inherently playful about it. You put in all this effort to go and find this wave, ride it for a few seconds, only for it to bring you back in.
"It's the feeling and the connection that you are after. When people have those kinds of experiences, there's an openness.
"That not only helps you connect with yourself and nature, but also with yourself and other people."
Listen to the full interview with Easkey Britton on Sportsound Extra Time here
